Bu arkadaş taş izlerini, veya sürtünme izlerini nasıl çıkardı?
Konuyu Değerlendir: Güncel Değerlendirme :
ALINTIDIR...
So this is my new project into the Summer. One A6 Avant 2.5 TDI with high mileage that was ripe for a refurb. This is the final edition model (not its just a high spec 163kW) with power everything, full BOSE, leather, RS wheels etc etc on a 2005 (nope 2004 so much for cherished number history!) plate. The aim is to make it our dog wagon and when finished I can start on her E36 328 BMW that waiting for all things suspension and bush
Known Issues
Mass of fault codes from my Vag Com scan indicating Air Conditioning, ABS, Gearbox and Diesel Injection problems.
General dirt. Into OCD mode...http://www.forumboyakoruma.com/images/smilies/Detailer[1].gif" class="highslide" onclick="return hs.expand(this)">http://www.forumboyakoruma.com/images/smilies/Detailer[1].gif" style="-webkit-box-shadow: 0 15px 10px -10px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5), 0 1px 4px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.3), 0 0 40px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) inset;-moz-box-shadow: 0 15px 10px -10px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5), 0 1px 4px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.3), 0 0 40px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) inset;box-shadow: 0 15px 10px -10px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5), 0 1px 4px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.3), 0 0 40px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) inset; border-radius: 10px" border="0" alt="Passat Turkiye" onload="HSImageResizer.createOn(this);">
Some light body and paint damage. Yippee much machine polishing!!
Service and Cam belt change due.
So the initial images;
Looks pretty straight?
Good Clean Required
Light Wheel Damage
Ugly Tow Bar (pretty useful however if we track day the TT)
Crud and a dent to sort...
Mouldy Seals
Serious Wheel Refurb (thats road tar inside the rim!!)
Interior represents its previous life on a farm.
More Farm
Farm Dogs favorite armchair.
The Beasts Heart
The suspect injector pump?
More wheel refurbing!
Front leather needs the Furniture Clinic Treatment
First the inital clean up. As its going to sit on the drive until the Personalised Plate and the Injector pump is done it has to be presentable.
OK some overall befores
First an all over jet wash...pretty poor effect...but its caked on pretty thick.
Tons of Redberry wheel cleaner applied to the rims.
Load up the foam gun with 50/50 APC water...
Leave for 30 minutes..
Rinse and a car appears!!
No Touch Snow Foam applied (almost getting there)
Let it dwell for 30 minutes and spend some time gettting the brush into a few mouldy areas early on..
And the after shot before the real washing...
Paint & Body Defects
This is kind of my survey for the before and hopefully afters...
Now nothing really scary but I hope to show you how it all goes...no rush weeks to go...
Mirror Inboard
That rear wing looks better when cleaned
Bumper a few trailer dents
Chips Away......
Rear Arch inboard scuff
Goes nice with the other one...
Wheels need some work but the ugly spare washed up nice...
The front wing to bumper seems abused and the lower trim is missing. Fronts coming off for the cambelt so that will be fixed then.
Now the fault codes and a good survey of the web showed the Bosch pump is pretty rugged with the exception of the ECU. As an alternative to pulling the pump (vehicle actually runs like a rocket with intermittent faults) and getting a full and very expensive refurb I am going to start with the ECU.Automotive ECU Testing - ECU Repair and Exchange ECU Testing supplied a helpful guide to lifting the ECU BUT its a bit more tricky than they make out.
Apart from the Fault Codes in Vag Com (VCDS free download from Ross Tech plus Ebay cable and $99 licence bargain) this fault gives an Engine and Traction Warning indicator.
So the start...
Pull the slide clip that holds the connector in place.
Slide it out.
To get clearance you will have to snip the cable tie that gives you some cable to play with.
Next Torx 25 to pull the screws holding the lid on. magnetic driver suggested as you loose these forever if they drop in the engine bay.
Uncovered the faulty module (I hope!)
Next you need to lift the three screws that hold the ECU down and there's a hose in the way.
I used some large wire ties to hold back the cable loom and the hose (after snipping the wire tie standoff)
Now find the electrical connections to the ECU.
Now there are two pairs of wires. Getting them the wrong way round is a big and very expensive no-no.
Cut the outer insulation with a very sharp blade and be very careful not to cut or nick the wires.
Now the repairers need a minimum of 15mm of wire on the ECU or its scrapped:censored: Cut staggered to ensure correct connection. There will be soldering later....
I used coloured wire ties to confirm the wires for reconnection.
Now remove the other three bolts and lift the lid VERY CAREFULLY
Thats a multiway plastic ribbon that connects to the timing sensor that is still attached...DO NOT PULL IT.
Also note the seal round the 4 terminal blobs!
This part is full of fuel so No Smoking!
I packed the lid with clean rag to give me access to the two retaining screws.
These are Torx 10 and if you drop them in the pump...thats it pump out!!
Sensor Out
Remove the plastic seal round the 4 terminal 'blobs' and then save all the screws, this seal and the lid somewhere clean and safe.
Pack it all up and send off to ECU or your other chosen repairer. Oh dont walk it into Audi as they will laugh at you:
Oh they like you to tie the sender to the ECU so it secure in transit.
Cover and seal the exposed pump internals. Dirt or parts will kill the engine.
Will check on the tow bar mounts...thanks for that!!
This was a standard 2 bucket with CG Citrus Wash & Gloss. The real finish will be later after clay etc.
Note the crud coming out from under this soft trim line...scary rust making stuff..
After a wash a whole bottle of Tonic used to remove the tar, wax etc etc.
Excuse to buy some Iron X now!
Used it to get the stickers off...
Then washed it again...
This is why we use 2 buckets and grit guards ....
Mind you the clean bucket wasn't too healthy afterwards either....
Moved car and found half of Hampshire had been removed!
Done.....ready for the insides next....
Thanks for looking. Becoming more of a blog but from now on should get a bit more technical...raining now so called to a halt.
ALINTIDIR...
So this is my new project into the Summer. One A6 Avant 2.5 TDI with high mileage that was ripe for a refurb. This is the final edition model (not its just a high spec 163kW) with power everything, full BOSE, leather, RS wheels etc etc on a 2005 (nope 2004 so much for cherished number history!) plate. The aim is to make it our dog wagon and when finished I can start on her E36 328 BMW that waiting for all things suspension and bush
Known Issues
Mass of fault codes from my Vag Com scan indicating Air Conditioning, ABS, Gearbox and Diesel Injection problems.
General dirt. Into OCD mode...http://www.forumboyakoruma.com/images/smilies/Detailer[1].gif" class="highslide" onclick="return hs.expand(this)">http://www.forumboyakoruma.com/images/smilies/Detailer[1].gif" style="-webkit-box-shadow: 0 15px 10px -10px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5), 0 1px 4px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.3), 0 0 40px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) inset;-moz-box-shadow: 0 15px 10px -10px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5), 0 1px 4px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.3), 0 0 40px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) inset;box-shadow: 0 15px 10px -10px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5), 0 1px 4px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.3), 0 0 40px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) inset; border-radius: 10px" border="0" alt="Passat Turkiye" onload="HSImageResizer.createOn(this);">
Some light body and paint damage. Yippee much machine polishing!!
Service and Cam belt change due.
So the initial images;
Looks pretty straight?
Good Clean Required
Light Wheel Damage
Ugly Tow Bar (pretty useful however if we track day the TT)
Crud and a dent to sort...
Mouldy Seals
Serious Wheel Refurb (thats road tar inside the rim!!)
Interior represents its previous life on a farm.
More Farm
Farm Dogs favorite armchair.
The Beasts Heart
The suspect injector pump?
More wheel refurbing!
Front leather needs the Furniture Clinic Treatment
First the inital clean up. As its going to sit on the drive until the Personalised Plate and the Injector pump is done it has to be presentable.
OK some overall befores
First an all over jet wash...pretty poor effect...but its caked on pretty thick.
Tons of Redberry wheel cleaner applied to the rims.
Load up the foam gun with 50/50 APC water...
Leave for 30 minutes..
Rinse and a car appears!!
No Touch Snow Foam applied (almost getting there)
Let it dwell for 30 minutes and spend some time gettting the brush into a few mouldy areas early on..
And the after shot before the real washing...
Paint & Body Defects
This is kind of my survey for the before and hopefully afters...
Now nothing really scary but I hope to show you how it all goes...no rush weeks to go...
Mirror Inboard
That rear wing looks better when cleaned
Bumper a few trailer dents
Chips Away......
Rear Arch inboard scuff
Goes nice with the other one...
Wheels need some work but the ugly spare washed up nice...
The front wing to bumper seems abused and the lower trim is missing. Fronts coming off for the cambelt so that will be fixed then.
Now the fault codes and a good survey of the web showed the Bosch pump is pretty rugged with the exception of the ECU. As an alternative to pulling the pump (vehicle actually runs like a rocket with intermittent faults) and getting a full and very expensive refurb I am going to start with the ECU.Automotive ECU Testing - ECU Repair and Exchange ECU Testing supplied a helpful guide to lifting the ECU BUT its a bit more tricky than they make out.
Apart from the Fault Codes in Vag Com (VCDS free download from Ross Tech plus Ebay cable and $99 licence bargain) this fault gives an Engine and Traction Warning indicator.
So the start...
Pull the slide clip that holds the connector in place.
Slide it out.
To get clearance you will have to snip the cable tie that gives you some cable to play with.
Next Torx 25 to pull the screws holding the lid on. magnetic driver suggested as you loose these forever if they drop in the engine bay.
Uncovered the faulty module (I hope!)
Next you need to lift the three screws that hold the ECU down and there's a hose in the way.
I used some large wire ties to hold back the cable loom and the hose (after snipping the wire tie standoff)
Now find the electrical connections to the ECU.
Now there are two pairs of wires. Getting them the wrong way round is a big and very expensive no-no.
Cut the outer insulation with a very sharp blade and be very careful not to cut or nick the wires.
Now the repairers need a minimum of 15mm of wire on the ECU or its scrapped:censored: Cut staggered to ensure correct connection. There will be soldering later....
I used coloured wire ties to confirm the wires for reconnection.
Now remove the other three bolts and lift the lid VERY CAREFULLY
Thats a multiway plastic ribbon that connects to the timing sensor that is still attached...DO NOT PULL IT.
Also note the seal round the 4 terminal blobs!
This part is full of fuel so No Smoking!
I packed the lid with clean rag to give me access to the two retaining screws.
These are Torx 10 and if you drop them in the pump...thats it pump out!!
Sensor Out
Remove the plastic seal round the 4 terminal 'blobs' and then save all the screws, this seal and the lid somewhere clean and safe.
Pack it all up and send off to ECU or your other chosen repairer. Oh dont walk it into Audi as they will laugh at you:
Oh they like you to tie the sender to the ECU so it secure in transit.
Cover and seal the exposed pump internals. Dirt or parts will kill the engine.
Will check on the tow bar mounts...thanks for that!!
This was a standard 2 bucket with CG Citrus Wash & Gloss. The real finish will be later after clay etc.
Note the crud coming out from under this soft trim line...scary rust making stuff..
After a wash a whole bottle of Tonic used to remove the tar, wax etc etc.
Excuse to buy some Iron X now!
Used it to get the stickers off...
Then washed it again...
This is why we use 2 buckets and grit guards ....
Mind you the clean bucket wasn't too healthy afterwards either....
Moved car and found half of Hampshire had been removed!
Done.....ready for the insides next....
Thanks for looking. Becoming more of a blog but from now on should get a bit more technical...raining now so called to a halt.
Bu arkadaş taş izlerini, veya sürtünme izlerini nasıl çıkardı?
Bu benim AUDI A6 degilki . Benimki A6 4G dir
Peki arkadaşlar bu kil dediğimiz malzeme(cahilliğimi mazur görün) bu şekildeki bütün izleri çıkarabiliyor mu? Hatta wax da dahil buna.
Peki arkadaşlar bu kil dediğimiz malzeme(cahilliğimi mazur görün) bu şekildeki bütün izleri çıkarabiliyor mu? Hatta wax da dahil buna.
Aracın kile ihtiyacı olup olmadığını anlamak için kaportayı okşamak gerekiyor biraz Elimizi sürttüğümüzde pürüzlü yüzey varsa kil yapmak gerekir. Kil bütün pütürleri yıkama ile çıkmayan kirlerin hepsini alır götürür.Peki arkadaşlar bu kil dediğimiz malzeme(cahilliğimi mazur görün) bu şekildeki bütün izleri çıkarabiliyor mu? Hatta wax da dahil buna.
Tam emin değilim ancak boyayı waxtan temizlemek için İPA kullanılıyordu sanırım bilen arkadaşlar yanlışsa düzeltiniz
Aracın kile ihtiyacı olup olmadığını anlamak için kaportayı okşamak gerekiyor biraz Elimizi sürttüğümüzde pürüzlü yüzey varsa kil yapmak gerekir. Kil bütün pütürleri yıkama ile çıkmayan kirlerin hepsini alır götürür.Peki arkadaşlar bu kil dediğimiz malzeme(cahilliğimi mazur görün) bu şekildeki bütün izleri çıkarabiliyor mu? Hatta wax da dahil buna.
Tam emin değilim ancak boyayı waxtan temizlemek için İPA kullanılıyordu sanırım bilen arkadaşlar yanlışsa düzeltiniz